tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-48739218333417790092024-02-19T07:08:49.521-08:00-=48Chief=-BitMonkeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16864008598676484053noreply@blogger.comBlogger100125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4873921833341779009.post-85295234649489152142013-11-07T21:20:00.002-08:002013-11-07T21:20:41.897-08:00Progress!I have spent so much time dreaming about the day when my Chief bottom end was finally put together for the final time. Well, it's here!<br />
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This first picture shows the cams in and correctly timed: <br />
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This next picture shows the new pushrods, and also illustrates a problem. I had too little clearance even with the adjusters bottomed. I called a fellow Indian afficionado who has already saved my bacon once! He asked me if I had the "thick" or the "thin" lock nuts...</div>
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Turns out I had the thick ones:</div>
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So Duff saved me by sending a set of four thin lock nuts, as shown below. Between these, and some home made .025" cylinder base gaskets, I got the clearance I needed.<br />
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I hope to be able to install the rings, and button up the cylinders this weekend. Stay tuned for further developments!!Flathead45http://www.blogger.com/profile/15914975990686814788noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4873921833341779009.post-73437669640614253492013-10-07T21:31:00.000-07:002013-10-07T22:35:33.846-07:00Relieving the cases for 80"When I discovered I needed to replace the flywheels I decided to go from 74" to 80" displacement. This involves several small operations, most notably buying flywheels with a 3/8" increase in stroke.<br />
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As mentioned in previous posts, the piston skirts needed to be shortened by about 0.250" and the heads had to be milled to clear the pistons at TDC.<br />
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The other modification involves relieving the cases to clear the rods at
the front and back. Bitmonkey helped me do this gingerly by hand with a
file. We checked it by assembling the pistons on the rods and crank, and then put
the cylinders in place on just the right (pinion) side case half. We
ended up taking off about .125" from the front of the front cylinder
opening, and the same amount off of the back of the rear cylinder opening. I was worried about clearing the lip on the cylinder, but it was fine, and we didn't have to relieve between cylinders either:<br />
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Once we got the right case half relieved, we simply relieved the left case half to match.<br />
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This pic shows how far down the pistons are at B.D.C. The skirt
actually extends about 3/8" below the cylinder, and comes within about
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The final thing I checked was the clearance between the scraper and the flywheels, shown below. It's supposed to run within about .025" , and I bent it up until I got the clearance right. Apparently this scraper is a 1947 only feature, intended to make the scavenge pump work better. In 48 and later, they cast a special channel in the case halves to accomplish the same thing, so I guess it worked!</div>
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<br />Flathead45http://www.blogger.com/profile/15914975990686814788noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4873921833341779009.post-47287844462006175022013-09-29T20:56:00.000-07:002013-10-03T21:32:45.716-07:00Crank be true!Many aspects of the engine rebuild have been intimidating, but none so much as the equally black arts of balancing and truing the crank.<br />
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I hired out the balancing to Truett and Osborn. They have been in business since 1974 or so. I am confident they have figured it out by now. The work looks very thorough. Time will tell.<br />
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For the truing, I relied on the expertise of Fuzzy Jamison, owner of <a href="http://www.classicthundermt.com/" target="_blank">Classic Thunder</a>, a fellow Seattle Cossack, and a good friend. I also brought BitMonkey for moral support. We used Fuzzy's beautifully built ($$$) Rowe truing stand. <br />
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Here's a little theory. I read and re-read my Revised 2nd edition copy of trusty "Motorcycle Mechanics and Speed Tuning", circa 1939. There are three distinct ways in which the crank may be out of true (probably more if any of the parts are damaged). They are:<br />
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A. This first kind of misalignment will result in peak readings when the crankpin is at the top or bottom (above or below the drive shaft and pinion shafts), or very nearly so. The "fix" involves a well-placed "rap" (or multiple raps) with a lead or brass hammer on the outer surface of the trailing wheel, more or less 90 degrees from the crankpin. DO NOT do this with the crank in the truing stand!!<br />
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Watching someone beat on your immaculate flywheels is like watching an orthopedic surgeon set your child's femur. Not for the faint of heart. Get it as close as you can in this direction before going on to "B" or "C"...<br />
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Both "B" and C" will result in peak readings when the crankpin is near the same level as the drive shaft and pinion shafts.<br />
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"Motorcycle Mechanics" suggests a wedge to correct the misalignment shown in "B". Fuzzy has ground a 5/16" nut and bolt to exactly the right length to slip in between the wheels, and he spreads them with a pair of wrenches. Very controlled and precise.<br />
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"C" illustrates the need to squeeze the wheels at the arrows. "Motorcycle Mechanics" suggests a vise for this, but Fuzzy used a large C-clamp. Again, very easy and precise. <br />
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We were very careful to loosen the dead centers on the truing stand each time we squeezed or spread the flywheels.<br />
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Eventually Fuzzy figured that Bit-Monkey and I wouldn't hurt ourselves, and left us to our own devices. With about 2 1/2 hours invested, we got the crank to .0005" (half a thousandth) on each side. The Indian Overhaul Manual calls for a maximum runout of 0.001. I am very pleased!!<br />
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Thanks very much to Fuzzy and BitMonkey for the help. I can't wait to see how it runs.<br />
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<br />Flathead45http://www.blogger.com/profile/15914975990686814788noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4873921833341779009.post-6212708063833029072013-06-24T22:03:00.001-07:002013-06-24T22:03:18.729-07:00Balance FactorBlog readers will know I am working on understanding balancing crank assemblies. This was stolen shamelessly from Jockey Journal. <br />
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Seems like a 60% balance factor keeps coming up. S&S supposedly uses 60%, and Paul Osborn (from Truett and Osborn) told me he uses 60% unless the customer specifies otherwise.</div>
<br />Flathead45http://www.blogger.com/profile/15914975990686814788noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4873921833341779009.post-52765895534598074042013-06-01T21:47:00.002-07:002013-06-01T21:47:53.993-07:00Barn FreshThis one is just perfectly crusty. It sure makes me want to hear yours running again.<br />
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<iframe width="400" height="300" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/Hy0BRcAk-kg?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>BitMonkeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16864008598676484053noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4873921833341779009.post-11867825412324721902013-05-29T17:48:00.001-07:002013-05-29T17:49:29.406-07:00Stroked to 80"Well, I have come to a momentous decision... Because of my flywheel troubles (see previous post), it was recommended to me that I would be better off replacing the old flywheels with new ones. Since the primary cost of upgrading from 74 cubic inches to 80 cubic inches is the flywheels, this caused some serious reflection...<br />
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The stock 74" has a bore and stroke of 3.25" x 4.4375". The 80" (Indian's last ditch attempt to resurrect flagging Chief sales against the Panhead) came out in 1950. Applying creativity in place of development $$$, Indian achieved the 80" by stroking the 74" by 3/8", to 4.8125". This necessitated three (or maybe four) relatively simple changes:<br />
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1) Replace the flywheels<br />
2) Shorten the piston skirts 1/4 inch to keep them from hitting the case at BDC<br />
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When I compared my new 74" pistons to the old pistons that came out, I was curious as to why the old skirts were shorter... Turns out they were 80" pistons! Just for the record, the old (80") pistons have a total height of just under 3" (2.995"). The new 74" pistons have a total height of just over 3.25" (3.255"). <br />
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I'm not sure I have the guts to throw the new 74" pistons on the lathe with my remedial machinist skills. I think I will try to exchange them for 80" instead.<br />
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3) Cut a recess into the heads to accomodate the piston at TDC, now sticking up 3/16"<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5hOWRzBW8MyfqgAlrJMAVdmd4n4IXjQ3iBFCnVVvT-KwgmvrAFt0OK22LNhB9UPRsmTEksjj3QCXxtL0o7y-Ukmi2du8f5jVgJJxCerYGd2a9rslHVwMXMoY2zsIO_CGvGRKZQJAlSms/s1600/My+74%22+head.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5hOWRzBW8MyfqgAlrJMAVdmd4n4IXjQ3iBFCnVVvT-KwgmvrAFt0OK22LNhB9UPRsmTEksjj3QCXxtL0o7y-Ukmi2du8f5jVgJJxCerYGd2a9rslHVwMXMoY2zsIO_CGvGRKZQJAlSms/s320/My+74%22+head.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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This is my stock 74" head. note the lower part of the combustion chamber is flush with the gasket surface. <br />
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This is an 80" head. Note the cutout at the bottom, to accommodate the "pop-up" piston. <br />
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I may also need to relieve the cases at the cylinder bases to clear the rods a little bit, not sure yet. I am told the stock cams and followers will work just fine in the 80", although several different "hot" cams are available, with names like Bonneville, Shunk, and Ollie.<br />
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I took the plunge. I ordered 80" Kiwi Flywheels (manufactured by Truett and Osborn) today, and also sent my heads off to be machined. Hope I don't regret this!<br />
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<br />Flathead45http://www.blogger.com/profile/15914975990686814788noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4873921833341779009.post-7924685985827016632013-05-21T19:44:00.002-07:002013-05-21T19:44:49.324-07:00Crank woesI apologize in advance to the casual lurkers. This post will be pretty esoteric. I am trying to solve a couple of flywheel problems and want to share some pictures:<br />
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Problem 1: The crankpin does not pull through as much on the drive side as the pinion side, which appears to cause excessive side play at the rods when assembled with .067" thrust washers.<br />
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This picture below shows the pinion side of the crankpin, torqued. Crankpin end is about .033" below the nut face, not too bad:<br />
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This picture shows the problem end, the drive side crankpin end. Crankpin end is about .067" below the nut face, fully torqued. Note exposed threads on nut...<br />
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By reversing the pin, I concluded that the problem seems to be in the drive side flywheel, and not asymmetry in the crankpin itself. The taper (hole) in the drive side flywheel seems to be of too small diameter. This would also explain why the wheels seem too far apart, and very thick thrust washers would be required to get the proper .020" side play on the rods. Might also explain why I found that the last rebulder ground down the drive side case race on the inner surface with an angle grinder (to try to get proper crank end-play with a too-wide crank, I would guess). <br />
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Here is a photo of the outer surface of the drive-side wheel. Note the "Z-metal" mark and that there is no stamped timing mark.<br />
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Below is the outer surface of the pinion side wheel. This one has a problem too. When I insert and torque the new pinion shaft, and then mount it in the lathe to check that the wheel is true to the pin, I get about .015" wobble at the outer diameter. <br />
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Note the Z marking and the "84" casting tag. Note also that the balancing hole at the top of the picture is the only hole on this wheel, and the other crank has no balance holes drilled anywhere. The lack of drilled balance on one side makes me wonder if the wheeled are mismatched.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqrMW3qZpFjdoNr71r95BYkEUZ8vVoRWRLlnd_Gc61A3WRJl8sXIouB7a4Aupx5V9jqTiCd9yvOUKZA3mYtf983iuLAYeoqyHLU1tDEnB0KbxVHIIG_92RJW2UP3vbaPIR8D22jRE5UZU/s1600/IMG_4161.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqrMW3qZpFjdoNr71r95BYkEUZ8vVoRWRLlnd_Gc61A3WRJl8sXIouB7a4Aupx5V9jqTiCd9yvOUKZA3mYtf983iuLAYeoqyHLU1tDEnB0KbxVHIIG_92RJW2UP3vbaPIR8D22jRE5UZU/s320/IMG_4161.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Close-up of the crooked pinion shaft taper. I hope I can lap the new pinion shaft with a carefully indexed Bridgeport and straighten this taper... <br />
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Pinion side wheel, inner surface: <br />
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Drive side wheel, inner surface: <br />
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Close-up of casting marks on pinion side wheel<br />
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Another close-up of the pinion shaft taper, Note wear on lower right, although the pinion shaft pulls in tight, just not quite true. <br />
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<br />Flathead45http://www.blogger.com/profile/15914975990686814788noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4873921833341779009.post-32570762673378903152013-04-15T00:05:00.003-07:002013-04-15T00:05:21.843-07:00Shhh... Don't tell Lynn...The other day, Bitmonkey posted a picture of a 1938 Briggs and Stratton WMI 1/2 hp engine that followed me home from the Twinline motorcycle swap meet. These were used on washing machines and mowers. Don't ask me why, I am a sucker for a project, and it's so cute and needed a home and we all know '38 was a good year for flathead engines...<br />
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Since then I have been watching eBay and Seattle CL for some missing parts, namely the sheet metal shrouds that cover the flywheel and cylinder. I happened to stumble across a CL listing for this 1948 Briggs WI 1/2 hp engine (another good year for flatheads):<br />
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So I am thinking, hmmm, it's got the sheet metal that would fit the '38 WMI, along with other parts, and it's local, so no shipping... and Lynn is at Mom's weekend in Pullman...<br />
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Those of you that share my affliction will see where this is going... It's mine now. It also runs, although it's missing the gas tank. How could I tear this one apart when it has survived this long and it ran so pretty for me? So I found tins on eBay for the '38 after all...<br />
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Y'know, I'll bet with a little tuning, and some proprietary hop-up tricks, I could probably coax another 1/8 hp out of this thing...<br />
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<br />Flathead45http://www.blogger.com/profile/15914975990686814788noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4873921833341779009.post-16707427774247955742013-03-16T22:07:00.001-07:002013-03-16T22:07:03.523-07:00Cross Country Chiefs...Love this picture. No bling, just function...<br />
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Al-Can Highway - 1950'sFlathead45http://www.blogger.com/profile/15914975990686814788noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4873921833341779009.post-65535305574623961592013-03-09T22:01:00.004-08:002013-03-09T22:02:34.861-08:00The New Indian Engine...Pictures and video of the new Indian engine have just been released.<br />
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This has to be the first time the styling department asks engineering to make an OHV look like a flathead!!<br />
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See it run <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wx4XcWGgOyU" target="_blank">here</a>, along with a pretty cool exploded parts animation.Flathead45http://www.blogger.com/profile/15914975990686814788noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4873921833341779009.post-62545344525591696172013-02-24T20:38:00.000-08:002013-02-24T20:38:30.840-08:00GlyptalLike so many aspects of old motorcycle restoration, painting the inside of the cases with Glyptal seems to elicit polarized opinions...<br />
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Among the purported benefits: sealing porous cases, facilitating oil drainage, and encapsulating any remaining contaminants (e.g. residual glass beads). So say the advocates.<br />
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The theoretical drawbacks are two: Glyptal may insulate the oil from reaching the cases, and may therefore contribute to slightly higher oil temp, and the spectre of flaking paint plugging oil passages, and causing catastrophic failures. I suspect the failure to adhere would be traced to improper prep, because plenty of people claim to have opened cases after 30 years, and the Glyptal is still there.<br />
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I took the plunge. Watch this space to see how it turns out...Flathead45http://www.blogger.com/profile/15914975990686814788noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4873921833341779009.post-52007842719569591632013-02-22T21:52:00.002-08:002013-02-22T21:52:51.749-08:00Polishing the pinion shaftI needed an extra 0.0004" clearance (that's four ten thousandths for those of you still paying attention) on the pinion side main bearing. The '47 Chief pinion side race is in a blind hole, and thus hard to hone. The machinist suggest I polish the pinion shaft to get the right clearance instead.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiK7CWoZ1CBTzLTE6rv-Oq071qUTMWw0TcrP2g8P0eV9oQH8g_frzqDzY8TBDU6C-9SaIAYWmz_LLsPtj6BK9e39UxTMhI3nnePUKmqQXj5eR__iVuRNPByDowIsE6KMn835oiWqtNUJw/s1600/pinion1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiK7CWoZ1CBTzLTE6rv-Oq071qUTMWw0TcrP2g8P0eV9oQH8g_frzqDzY8TBDU6C-9SaIAYWmz_LLsPtj6BK9e39UxTMhI3nnePUKmqQXj5eR__iVuRNPByDowIsE6KMn835oiWqtNUJw/s320/pinion1.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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Another Indian rescue job for the '47 Atlas lathe... A little crocus cloth and some Scotch Brite, and we're there! A quick test-fit of the pinion side bearings... Looking good!<br />
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Watch this space. Parts should start going TOGETHER as opposed to coming apart pretty soon here.Flathead45http://www.blogger.com/profile/15914975990686814788noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4873921833341779009.post-67785986249793784062013-02-22T21:42:00.004-08:002013-02-22T21:43:22.417-08:00Swap Meet Find!Went with Bitmonkey to the Early Bird Swap Meet last week. Found this buddy seat that came off a 1946 Indian...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibQ41Vo9C1qHDSMWfiBnSZLu9bIDWMuexeCs0S9gjviDrwWnKxoMQHyhFKFrqydrqEA9ETOo-5PW6N3ydmpNhRPiyuGx6fJYfBFrEdsyQd8Fx4CLBXSWa-PB0eIFf8h1fnOkghb5k5Hp4/s1600/Buddy+Seat1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibQ41Vo9C1qHDSMWfiBnSZLu9bIDWMuexeCs0S9gjviDrwWnKxoMQHyhFKFrqydrqEA9ETOo-5PW6N3ydmpNhRPiyuGx6fJYfBFrEdsyQd8Fx4CLBXSWa-PB0eIFf8h1fnOkghb5k5Hp4/s320/Buddy+Seat1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I think the seat is either aftermarket, or possibly 1950's era Harley, but all the seat mounts are correct for a Chief. The chrome seat rail is in excellent shape.<br />
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I am still planning to run a solo seat most of the time, but this was too good to pass up. We'll see if Harleywidow is willing to give it a try with me...Flathead45http://www.blogger.com/profile/15914975990686814788noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4873921833341779009.post-59583940713578576412013-01-23T22:39:00.001-08:002013-01-23T22:40:09.927-08:00How to ride...Bitmonkey located a military Indian 741 (30.50 cubic inch) manual online, which is really useful because it has considerably more engine overhaul maintenance detail than the civilian manual. It also included this gem:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMofKn2tnLgSLEonbgeYwHTgLnuzrxD5at6LDmVcjWH59qLF1Hds3Om1JY5fqsfJVwx1RJfM759NnBazTJrUOyTCtnQKOCOqGdoiKLl9pfsT29YGdnNLSa3ak1UIy35XlUfiMPvRs0afA/s1600/How+to+ride.tiff" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="245" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMofKn2tnLgSLEonbgeYwHTgLnuzrxD5at6LDmVcjWH59qLF1Hds3Om1JY5fqsfJVwx1RJfM759NnBazTJrUOyTCtnQKOCOqGdoiKLl9pfsT29YGdnNLSa3ak1UIy35XlUfiMPvRs0afA/s400/How+to+ride.tiff" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />Flathead45http://www.blogger.com/profile/15914975990686814788noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4873921833341779009.post-36170892544434590782012-12-21T21:24:00.001-08:002012-12-21T21:24:43.411-08:00More cracks for ChrisA thorough cleaning and inspection of the transmission case revealed some more cracking:<br />
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Fortunately, this is the only primary attachment bolt that actually threads into the transmission case. The rest simply pass through and have a nut and washer on the back.<br />
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To add insult to injury, there is a piece of broken bolt imbedded in that hole...<br />
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Only another incurable gear-head can appreciate the relief that this picture represents. I successfully drilled the center of the bolt remnant, and got it out with the handle end of a rat tail file. <br />
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We'll see how Chris does on this one... Our plan is to install a helicoil after the weld repair, in hopes of preventing an instant replay.Flathead45http://www.blogger.com/profile/15914975990686814788noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4873921833341779009.post-33862019269050036332012-12-21T21:12:00.002-08:002012-12-21T21:12:58.360-08:00Case Repair - Magic!A close inspection of my engine cases caused great dismay, when I saw that there were small cracks forming on one case half, near one of the front engine mount bolts:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcJ7jz4RLHx6pH-3TnaEoL3jb_f4M9mfUn0Plu8BRUfNe2abz_dMgtqMPNSH6pg1SjHSsHxmxS5RE79Ru_Cz2OBl7qiCJ-w7ioMQaeDjPGrdqqz6bRfdeiuOP-4lflY5tisKABvVrIS-c/s1600/Case+crack.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcJ7jz4RLHx6pH-3TnaEoL3jb_f4M9mfUn0Plu8BRUfNe2abz_dMgtqMPNSH6pg1SjHSsHxmxS5RE79Ru_Cz2OBl7qiCJ-w7ioMQaeDjPGrdqqz6bRfdeiuOP-4lflY5tisKABvVrIS-c/s320/Case+crack.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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There is actually a companion crack underneath thats not visible in this photo...<br />
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Fuzzy at <a href="http://www.classicthundermt.com/">Classic Thunder</a> recommended Chris Tveter (a.k.a "Tweeter") at <a href="http://www.extremeadrentech.com/">Extreme Adrenalin</a> to do the repair...<br />
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This is what it looks like now: <br />
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Nice work, Chris!! Flathead45http://www.blogger.com/profile/15914975990686814788noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4873921833341779009.post-35867127268575574372012-12-21T20:59:00.001-08:002012-12-21T21:04:16.261-08:00Generator drive - driving me battyOne thing that I knew was completely worn out, when I bought the Chief, was the generator drive. A generator drive sprocket inside the primary engages with the primary chain. The shaft for said sprocket passes through a bushing in the inner primary cover, and a pulley on the outside connects to a v-belt, which drives the generator..<br />
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The generator drive sprocket shaft is supported on both ends by brass bushings. They were so worn that the inner bushing had a clearance of about 3/32" instead of the .002" it should have... The shaft was heavily scored, and the inner primary was wallowed out to the point where the bushing fell out upon disassembly. Repairing all this was pretty involved...<br />
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Step one: Order a reproduction inner primary and inner and outer bushings.<br />
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Step two: press in the bushings. But wait... The outer bushing, which is supposed to be a light press fit in the primary cover, goes in by hand... not acceptable!<br />
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Step three: Make a new bushing with an oversize outside diameter! Atlas to the rescue!<br />
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Checking the bushing alignment and clearances with the new shaft: <br />
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Almost there. A gentle line-hone and I think we're back in business... <br />
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Step four: drill out the rivets holding the old sprocket to the shaft, transfer the sprocket, and re-rivet...<br />
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Step five: turn down the rivet heads you just painstakingly peened, until they are flush to the shaft shoulder, because the rivets are underneath a thrust washer (?) Who thought this up? I'm starting to have Sprite flashbacks...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxBJ3UUKrW1q8g2zidTvxE4bOF-EXnpbrUUPGWBoECX4BW4AhC2QV4-oE08o01gwjgorhbGy7pobpJ9qLnuA0iUjmU1I3KT796sxGfQKJeAnddHOJTG2QHPaS9qX9SSsH2UgO6FC2bixE/s1600/gen+sprocket.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxBJ3UUKrW1q8g2zidTvxE4bOF-EXnpbrUUPGWBoECX4BW4AhC2QV4-oE08o01gwjgorhbGy7pobpJ9qLnuA0iUjmU1I3KT796sxGfQKJeAnddHOJTG2QHPaS9qX9SSsH2UgO6FC2bixE/s320/gen+sprocket.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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Do you ever have the feeling that your hobby involves a certain amount of occasional mental illness? I could have been golfing or somehting normal!<br />
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Oh yeah, one final OCD detail... I added a modern rubber seal to the inner primary, to prevent the ever-present oil leak from behind the generator pulley.Flathead45http://www.blogger.com/profile/15914975990686814788noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4873921833341779009.post-83508754216196258792012-12-09T08:04:00.002-08:002012-12-09T08:05:31.921-08:0030 Reasons<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />BitMonkeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16864008598676484053noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4873921833341779009.post-1448072379542523572012-11-22T20:36:00.006-08:002012-11-22T20:36:51.381-08:00Partially baffled?My '47 Chief engine is totally disassembled now. Before I start to reassemble the bottom end, I might<br />
need to do some case repair...<br />
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The baffles under the front cylinder flange are about 1/4 missing on the left case half, and about 2/3 missing on the right case half: <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEircfWPIN1eoiADkZZNs4PNU8OoBP6zkG_FGEQ5oIByVJ7QYgQurinKaWnLeppH2l3O_FAfZXgu1wGj6ntGZ_uYQjMUou5-c3MhIL5FDIG1rLFLD59z4Vqp_d0hjw2BI1g8E26q2cyDyUI/s1600/baffles2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEircfWPIN1eoiADkZZNs4PNU8OoBP6zkG_FGEQ5oIByVJ7QYgQurinKaWnLeppH2l3O_FAfZXgu1wGj6ntGZ_uYQjMUou5-c3MhIL5FDIG1rLFLD59z4Vqp_d0hjw2BI1g8E26q2cyDyUI/s320/baffles2.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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The baffles in the rear cylinder are umdamaged, except that they appear to have minor manufacturing defects (rough edged holes) on either side:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi6ASfOnMTKt_06Cng05KrskImdwxJ2HFvMswdApExeucpDX-GP8vsVpmuyNPzIXthI9c7z5xwFo_HC8HLId8yEA0SgpBCx4qnm1HX6_UNFszD3h87S80VOItoOIO_rKxT4Yyr_BT-F-U/s1600/baffles3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi6ASfOnMTKt_06Cng05KrskImdwxJ2HFvMswdApExeucpDX-GP8vsVpmuyNPzIXthI9c7z5xwFo_HC8HLId8yEA0SgpBCx4qnm1HX6_UNFszD3h87S80VOItoOIO_rKxT4Yyr_BT-F-U/s320/baffles3.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
The engine was previously rebuilt, and has run without the baffles. In other words, no sign of the broken off pieces.<br />
<br />
Anybody know how important is it to restore these baffles? Now would be the time, and I can try to find somebody local who can do it, but it it makes no difference, I would just as soon let it slide...Flathead45http://www.blogger.com/profile/15914975990686814788noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4873921833341779009.post-23997331668903300062012-10-30T10:17:00.002-07:002012-10-30T10:17:28.329-07:0047 Chief<a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1947-Vintage-Indian-Motorcycle-Classic-Black-Original-Ridable-/271093029372">This one</a> is pretty cool. I'd loose the bags but it's still cool.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvqzyLZQMhuH_bk-QKN1t6HTBlj3N57ODLYGDakHzQ7GwalcDehxAQc_JueOI6Ysh7VuLADawCNsre7DVxtvHLUYTPTv4WhDjnE2FeUQKIpyb_qSbB0jPRgWhzOZKUeYLhotreORkOH7SQ/s1600/47Chief-1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvqzyLZQMhuH_bk-QKN1t6HTBlj3N57ODLYGDakHzQ7GwalcDehxAQc_JueOI6Ysh7VuLADawCNsre7DVxtvHLUYTPTv4WhDjnE2FeUQKIpyb_qSbB0jPRgWhzOZKUeYLhotreORkOH7SQ/s400/47Chief-1.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />BitMonkeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16864008598676484053noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4873921833341779009.post-75683322457782404882012-10-22T12:03:00.001-07:002012-10-22T12:05:37.228-07:00Chief BobberI'm not normally a huge fan of post-1940 Indian bobber's. This one, of at least this one from this angle, is pretty cool.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrbZDhK2kLJwAS3DveyUwVA1FmU5DJN4WC9dfmSLB5EmxprraysGT1TSj0jAEul1fjcG_b0qKV3LZ03SyM9B8CMJwwHSPLog_-n9eOE3YU-MvNmswYLgGvnP3a__5TBvBwT2KoinS1-_4i/s1600/Indian.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="260" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrbZDhK2kLJwAS3DveyUwVA1FmU5DJN4WC9dfmSLB5EmxprraysGT1TSj0jAEul1fjcG_b0qKV3LZ03SyM9B8CMJwwHSPLog_-n9eOE3YU-MvNmswYLgGvnP3a__5TBvBwT2KoinS1-_4i/s400/Indian.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I feel like I've seen that wheel and tire combination <a href="http://geekbobber.blogspot.com/2012/10/naked.html">somewhere before recently</a>...BitMonkeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16864008598676484053noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4873921833341779009.post-67699729066179825032012-10-12T23:19:00.002-07:002012-10-12T23:19:39.525-07:00Shoulda, coulda, woulda...I have been reading "A Century of Indian", by Ed Youngblood. It's
well known that the seeds of Indian's demise may well have been sown in
1936 when, in the midst of the depression, Harley had the courage and
foresight to innovate the overhead valve Knucklehead. Meantime, Indian
hunkered down and continued to produce their Flattie.<br />
<br />
It
took Indian way too long to recognize that their venerable Chief was a
capable chassis powered by an antiquated engine and transmission, dolled
up with streamlined tins. <br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH_rsjnJhBpzIjGdTkF7ms1_LUQIf2RuX0T5dFLkgsHt48i-pA-aLwVygPRzSHq4SLb0NgPuBnew3bgTXkvjtwbXSiswePxR6zgfZ7ZYwzR_Jg_Mv9yxVzsThXumlxiEV2DbS8RNwDimA/s1600/Paul+Bigsby-Crocker+Motorcycles.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH_rsjnJhBpzIjGdTkF7ms1_LUQIf2RuX0T5dFLkgsHt48i-pA-aLwVygPRzSHq4SLb0NgPuBnew3bgTXkvjtwbXSiswePxR6zgfZ7ZYwzR_Jg_Mv9yxVzsThXumlxiEV2DbS8RNwDimA/s1600/Paul+Bigsby-Crocker+Motorcycles.jpg" /></a>What
I didn't know, till reading this book, is that Albert Crocker, of
Crocker motorcycle fame, started in Indian's engineering department in
1909. In 1935 Crocker and Paul Bigsby developed and manufactured the
incredible Crocker motorcycle.<br />
<br />
In 1940, Crocker
offered to sell his design and manufacturing rights to Indian...
Imagine if Indian had taken him up on that offer...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx4WphMh2m-owq6beMjOMneIjL5fIlk3lxvzdiJ0O7RsLOa72GjWFIkbIshqtM85TyGXfT9ZD96lDFBbdkZ8wikt4KiZzenKulLPJNXhkRKTHSZf2UY_RkBCnc_tF1kMay93ZJH0-BCLM/s1600/pvincent.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx4WphMh2m-owq6beMjOMneIjL5fIlk3lxvzdiJ0O7RsLOa72GjWFIkbIshqtM85TyGXfT9ZD96lDFBbdkZ8wikt4KiZzenKulLPJNXhkRKTHSZf2UY_RkBCnc_tF1kMay93ZJH0-BCLM/s320/pvincent.jpg" width="290" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Another
road not taken involved the famous Vincent V-Twin engine. Indian
evaluated a prototype for a new-concept Chief powered by a Vincent
Series B Rapide engine. The <a href="http://www.myvincent.co.uk/bikes/vindian/pcvonvindian.php">running prototype</a>
exceeded 100 mph. I have seen pictures of "Vindians", but considered
that they were Frankenstein hybrids emerging from some backyard garage; I
didn't know Indian had seriously considered this option.
Unfortunately, Vincent was in their final death throes too.<br />
<br />
So
Indian put all their eggs in the vertical twin basket. That might have
worked too, if they had Edward Turner to design it. Unfortunately they
didn't, and the Wigwam didn't live long after that.Flathead45http://www.blogger.com/profile/15914975990686814788noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4873921833341779009.post-52276096508428907762012-10-10T22:02:00.000-07:002012-10-10T22:02:02.923-07:00What's under the covers?Pulled the primary cover and transmission cover off of the Indian tonight. I was pretty pleased with the condition of what I saw...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHbeb_ID_4sigskgaABrUgtfhmtGe4Ilr2rbfPNrMPfl343348wz4_TuMxmnTjEtXvKq97KnSFr1QQ64FAoXFUdhx4ZbCJwKYj_uoV4FmX1zEFer_ON0SDiAiOrSHhHnQDMyG5-TNVqII/s1600/IMG_3604.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHbeb_ID_4sigskgaABrUgtfhmtGe4Ilr2rbfPNrMPfl343348wz4_TuMxmnTjEtXvKq97KnSFr1QQ64FAoXFUdhx4ZbCJwKYj_uoV4FmX1zEFer_ON0SDiAiOrSHhHnQDMyG5-TNVqII/s320/IMG_3604.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
The primary chain looks very good, and the engine and clutch sprockets look okay too. Mostly, I was impressed with how clean everything was. No gunk built up in the bottom at all.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX2560p4ZJp2rxcRAjYWv-t6Yb9omefDkC9QmuNVOzu1lDUHERmIrBRuo7pn56nPV3vQZe4A_n5RE_JHtdKYuE3NcyjAnkKDWugtd8Q2I0ptZzkNw1h0lc2F6QHwD3tTNodX2Hh-6V1ns/s1600/IMG_3614.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX2560p4ZJp2rxcRAjYWv-t6Yb9omefDkC9QmuNVOzu1lDUHERmIrBRuo7pn56nPV3vQZe4A_n5RE_JHtdKYuE3NcyjAnkKDWugtd8Q2I0ptZzkNw1h0lc2F6QHwD3tTNodX2Hh-6V1ns/s320/IMG_3614.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Likewise, the internal parts in the transmission are very clean, with only a little evidence of wear. The simplicity of the Indian "crashbox" three-speed trannie made me laugh. It's about in neutral right now. Moving the sliding gear to the left is first, a little to the right is 2nd, and all the way to the right is 3rd (1:1).<br />
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Here you can see how the shifter mechanism engages the pin in the middle picture... I think I need to order some specialized tools to proceed from here...Flathead45http://www.blogger.com/profile/15914975990686814788noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4873921833341779009.post-25153124616390069982012-10-04T23:00:00.002-07:002012-10-04T23:00:55.129-07:00Chief LadyI have no idea who this lovely lady is but I do know she has great taste.<br />
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<br />BitMonkeyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16864008598676484053noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4873921833341779009.post-23719210497322064342012-09-27T18:32:00.000-07:002012-09-27T18:32:00.649-07:00Redskins<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0_Ph86_Jbx5Alhyphenhyphen7MR0MTwIN_Ikqpz6bUqO3RRCMj3Rt4v72CcUIGB3HCDjfK8rBkrFvqlaV50ZM_RANOxODKhUQRcW50DqZif35M3DHqCGp-piq4mv_EtLwwro6a9cEbigBgaQ2XwiM/s1600/Redskins.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0_Ph86_Jbx5Alhyphenhyphen7MR0MTwIN_Ikqpz6bUqO3RRCMj3Rt4v72CcUIGB3HCDjfK8rBkrFvqlaV50ZM_RANOxODKhUQRcW50DqZif35M3DHqCGp-piq4mv_EtLwwro6a9cEbigBgaQ2XwiM/s320/Redskins.jpg" width="270" /></a></div>
Borrowed from the AMCA Facebook page...Flathead45http://www.blogger.com/profile/15914975990686814788noreply@blogger.com0